The EDIC Motor problem returns……..

The Electric Diesel Injection Control is basically a motor that controls a fuel on/off soledoid, that prevents the engine from being started accidently.

The motor operates a wire which turns on the fuel when the ignition is switched, you can hear a re-assuring whirrr……..when it is working correctly!

You may recall me mentioning this in an early post, when we had problems getting the vehicle to start/run correctly – it turned out that the valve was not opening fully, thus restriciting the flow of diesel and was the cause of those issues.

Back then, we tracked the fault to a dodgy and very badly wired relay. In fact subsequent investigation uncovered wiring that was so poor, the entire vehicle was re-wired!

During the re-wire we provided a new fused permanent feed to the EDIC along with a new fused ignition feed, again via a relay. Everything seemed OK and when we were stopping and starting the vehicle during the re-bulld everything worked fine. That was, until we actually started using the car again on the road.

After a couple of runs, the engine either struggled to stop or refused to stop altogether. i.e. the solenoid was not closing off the fuel, so this had to be done manually. Sometimes, it would just “hunt” cycling between on and off. This time I knew it was not the wiring or the various relays – it had to be the EDIC motor itself………….

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Extremely annoying as I had replaced all of the other engine ancillaries and had been working around the EDIC motor for months. More than once, I thought I should replace it, but it was very expensive, had to be imported from Australia, and Hey – the one I had was working! – I should have known better.

I had to bite the bullet and ordered the part BYG9369 and associated wiring from Brad at KLR in Australia – A$586 + A$90 shipping and 20% duty on arrival in the UK – Ouch……….

On a positive, the package arrived in a week with the motor looking very smart in its white vinyl bag to protect it from the elements. My original had no such protection.

Fitting, at least initially, was relatively straightforward despite it all being a tight fit, now the clutch slave cylinder was back in. Annoying I had to remove some of the carpet that I had just fitted to get to the main bolts., but that done I just had to connect the live, ignition feed and the earth.

A quick test confirmed that the motor was working correctly.

The next job was to connect the Bowden cable to the fuel cut of switch on the engine. The cable on my existing motor was less the 30cm long and went directly to the switch on the engine, the cable on the new motor was in excess of 90cm which I thought odd.

My friend Darren checked his Perentie and it turns out that the cable should take a longer and more relaxed route to the switch by looping under the fuel pump.

Like everything else on the vehicle someone in the past who did not have the correct parts just made the best of what they had. In this case it was the way that the cable was connected to the fuel cut off switch, via makeshift braket on the engine to hold the Bowden cable in place and a old piece of cable block.

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Best way forward was to figure a way of connecting the new cable to the switch. First idea was simply to drill a bigger hole in the bracket for the new cable. However, the “T Bar” fitting on the end would not pass through the adjuster nut on cable, so that was not going to happen.

So, instead I cut a groove in the bracket and solved the problem that way.

The original Perentie set up is different, and has a special bracket to do this job; i have no idea of the part number of even if they are available, hence the work around.

After some adjustments, I found a spot where the engine would start and stop correctly. So I locked it into place. I suspect, the cable may give a little in use, and that a small adjustment might be needed in the future.

In an emergency, I can just disconnect the cable and allow the switch to stay in its default “On”position so the engine will still run. Turning off will require lifting the bonnet to pull the switch back by hand.

In reality the EDIC is a motor that simply moves a cable a few centimetres when the ignition is activated; i am not expectig to replace this again!

One less thing to worry about though.